Fabric Manipulation

A structural technique that is used in fashion to create volume and depth is pleating, I wanted to explore the different types of pleats and the effects they create.

Box Pleats

Box pleats are easily recognisable because they create long rectangle, box like, shapes. They are more complex to create than other pleats because you have to map out multiple lines to allow you to get an even pleat. I do like how much volume and definition this pleat creates, if I was to use these pleats I would position them at the top of a skirt.

Knife Pleats

Knife pleats are quite simple to do; they are a good way of putting pleats in that are spread out. I like this technique although I think they are quite flat therefore you lose the volume and height that are produced in other techniques.

Accordion Pleats

I think these are the easiest pleats to construct because you don’t have to measure the spacing, you concertina the fabric on top of each other similar to an accordion. This is my favourite pleating technique because it creates a lot of shape and depth; I also can connect the link to the circus because it resembles the thick curtain that the circus performers appear from.

The thing I would improve on when doing pleating is to secure the pleats before I sew them by ironing them down, this helps them to stay in place but also it makes the pleats more defined.

Gathering

I wanted to experiment with gathering because it’s a good technique to add texture and volume. I took light chiffon and sewed two thin lines along a long piece of fabric, and then I pulled the two bobbins threads to create the gather. The chiffon fabric gathered really well, however it was difficult, like I figured out in my first test, because the threads snapped very easy so you have to be gentle and observant when gathering the fabric. I would consider using this in my final design because I think the technique complements the striped pattern that is typically found at the circus.

3D Bows

I have experimented with the idea of including a bow in my garment design as they are stereotypically eccotionated with a clown. I wanted to look at the different ways I could create a bow that would make a structural statement.

I explored how to create a bow that would have stuffing the make it 3D like, this was simple to create but it didn’t create the effect I wanted. The stitching on the outside to seal the stuffing inside made the bow appear unfinished and lost the professional look I wanted. Also when I stuffed the bow it lost the original shape, turning it into a rounded object.

The other method I used was to create a “floppy” bow, similar to huge ones you see on the back of a wedding dress or evening dress. This was very successful, it was easy to create a required a minimal amount of stitching. Using this method enabled the bow to have interesting folds that add depth to the piece. I will defiantly consider including this technique in my final outcome if I decide to include a bow.

What next?

Over the Easter holidays I will continue to do structural techniques, exploring how I can use boning and possibly a hula hoop. I also want to start putting together initial ideas and developing them into a final outcome that fits my brief.